The European Chronicles 5.0 Iniziando la dolce vita
The European Chronicles - Chapter 5
Iniziando la dolce vita
Casa Olea in Perledo, up a steep, steep hill from Varenna, will be "home base" for the next month. It is gruesome, backbreaking, soul ripping duty, but, well, you know the rest...
The view
Breakfast in Riva del Garda before setting off for Lago di Como
You can see the clouds building; dry when I left, "chance of thunderstorms" and I did hit some heavy rain on the way. Up over a few passes (I know, you're shocked, shocked I say), then down to the lake.
Starting the climb
Going to hit the rain any minute now
For you riders out there, a couple of comments on some new gear for this trip. The gloves I'm using are Held's Air and Dry, a 2 in one concept. You have a "dry" compartment that is Gore-tex, and an "air" compartment where the palm is vented. They are working exceedingly well, and are a great compromise: I've only brought them. Not as cool as a true summer glove, but warm enough in 40 degree weather with the heated grips. Totally dry when in that compartment, and it is pretty convenient to just pull your hand out and reinsert in the desired chamber. Typical Held quality and attention to detail with a built in visor wiper on the left index finger, decent armor and Superfabric sliders on the kangaroo palm. When it is time to replace my touring go-to Held Steves at home, these may just do it.
Boots are another new try...Dainese Freelander Gore-tex. Totally dry, very comfortable, very, very light. I actually like these better than my Daytona Road Stars, they are significantly lighter, cheaper and just as, if not more, comfortable. Great grip wet or dry, comfortable to walk in. These were a "find."
The Aerostich works as it always does...perfectly. The only downside to the one piece is that it takes up a lot of room at the cafe when you take it off...things are "tighter" in Europe, so that's a bit more of an issue. Otherwise, perfect.
Ok, back to more fun stuff (although I do find the gear fun).
No pictures of the rain ride, and it was back to sunny as I climbed my way up to Casa Olea. The road there:
Now I want to try and give you some perspective on what these roads actually look like, and I'll use Google maps "street view" to do it since Mia does not have my unicorn bike's desired "nose cam"
This is literally "turn one" as you come up from the lake...in the shot above, it is the hard right hander just below and to the right of the SP72 moniker.
Another example a few turns later...
And another...this is why a nice light bike is my unicorn. Remember, these are 2-way roads, and that includes trucks, buses, pedestrians, cyclists and the truly dangerous: tourists like me. You quickly learn to twist your head, trust your tires and throttle up!
But the reward is soooooooo worth it.
Casa Olea is peaking thru the olive trees (they harvest the ones on the property) and this is the door to the Bat Cave
Mia, as always, is well cared for (well, except when I dropped her on Stelvio 😭😭😭)
You take the lift up to the "pool level," walk up a pathway to the deck and the waiting welcome party!
The entire house is made from the stone you see, inside and out. You enter into the bedroom, the living area is upstairs.
Bob's already taking a rest.
The shower grotto
Up the stairs...
Kitchen area to your right
And now the money shot...
Pinch me...
A flurry of unpacking, a walk up the hill to a small, but exceedingly well stocked grocery store for some essentials like Aperol spritz ingredients, and I raise a glass to the luck and hard work that's allowed all this to happen.
That night, we had some big, big thunderstorms and I woke up to these stunning views:
On little cat's feet...
But OMG, I forgot something vital at the grocery: coffee. I'm starting to shake typing this hours later...a great excuse to hoof it down to Varenna for some breakfast and a perfectly crafted cappuccino (or due).
There are some shortcuts down
Past the train station
And the ferry dock
Along the path and thru the tunnels
Worth it!
After the required lunch for breakfast, let's wander Varenna's nooks and crannies, shall we?
Gone too long without a motorcycle shot. 😀. The main piazza.
Now you have to love this set up: house is below, this is off the road, behind a fence, you must take the lift up to the "viewing platform"
Smiling now, but I'm about to start the climb!
Took a couple of "shortcuts," one of which put me about 700 meters too high. See the church? I need to be over there... Oops. 😢
A truly beautiful place! Time to stroll to the market and decide what's for dinner...
Ciao!
Update:
Fresh pasta, garlic, zucchini, olive oil and an excellent 2014 Barolo. 😁. They need better wine glasses...I'll suffer thru...I did notice a decanter somewhere...
Update Due
We were about to get another boomer, lightning, thunder, and then it literally "turned right." Pretty spectacular.
Iniziando la dolce vita
Casa Olea in Perledo, up a steep, steep hill from Varenna, will be "home base" for the next month. It is gruesome, backbreaking, soul ripping duty, but, well, you know the rest...
The view
Breakfast in Riva del Garda before setting off for Lago di Como
You can see the clouds building; dry when I left, "chance of thunderstorms" and I did hit some heavy rain on the way. Up over a few passes (I know, you're shocked, shocked I say), then down to the lake.
Starting the climb
Going to hit the rain any minute now
For you riders out there, a couple of comments on some new gear for this trip. The gloves I'm using are Held's Air and Dry, a 2 in one concept. You have a "dry" compartment that is Gore-tex, and an "air" compartment where the palm is vented. They are working exceedingly well, and are a great compromise: I've only brought them. Not as cool as a true summer glove, but warm enough in 40 degree weather with the heated grips. Totally dry when in that compartment, and it is pretty convenient to just pull your hand out and reinsert in the desired chamber. Typical Held quality and attention to detail with a built in visor wiper on the left index finger, decent armor and Superfabric sliders on the kangaroo palm. When it is time to replace my touring go-to Held Steves at home, these may just do it.
Boots are another new try...Dainese Freelander Gore-tex. Totally dry, very comfortable, very, very light. I actually like these better than my Daytona Road Stars, they are significantly lighter, cheaper and just as, if not more, comfortable. Great grip wet or dry, comfortable to walk in. These were a "find."
The Aerostich works as it always does...perfectly. The only downside to the one piece is that it takes up a lot of room at the cafe when you take it off...things are "tighter" in Europe, so that's a bit more of an issue. Otherwise, perfect.
Ok, back to more fun stuff (although I do find the gear fun).
No pictures of the rain ride, and it was back to sunny as I climbed my way up to Casa Olea. The road there:
Now I want to try and give you some perspective on what these roads actually look like, and I'll use Google maps "street view" to do it since Mia does not have my unicorn bike's desired "nose cam"
This is literally "turn one" as you come up from the lake...in the shot above, it is the hard right hander just below and to the right of the SP72 moniker.
Another example a few turns later...
And another...this is why a nice light bike is my unicorn. Remember, these are 2-way roads, and that includes trucks, buses, pedestrians, cyclists and the truly dangerous: tourists like me. You quickly learn to twist your head, trust your tires and throttle up!
But the reward is soooooooo worth it.
Casa Olea is peaking thru the olive trees (they harvest the ones on the property) and this is the door to the Bat Cave
Mia, as always, is well cared for (well, except when I dropped her on Stelvio 😭😭😭)
You take the lift up to the "pool level," walk up a pathway to the deck and the waiting welcome party!
The entire house is made from the stone you see, inside and out. You enter into the bedroom, the living area is upstairs.
Bob's already taking a rest.
The shower grotto
Up the stairs...
Kitchen area to your right
And now the money shot...
Pinch me...
A flurry of unpacking, a walk up the hill to a small, but exceedingly well stocked grocery store for some essentials like Aperol spritz ingredients, and I raise a glass to the luck and hard work that's allowed all this to happen.
That night, we had some big, big thunderstorms and I woke up to these stunning views:
On little cat's feet...
But OMG, I forgot something vital at the grocery: coffee. I'm starting to shake typing this hours later...a great excuse to hoof it down to Varenna for some breakfast and a perfectly crafted cappuccino (or due).
There are some shortcuts down
Past the train station
And the ferry dock
Along the path and thru the tunnels
Worth it!
After the required lunch for breakfast, let's wander Varenna's nooks and crannies, shall we?
Gone too long without a motorcycle shot. 😀. The main piazza.
Now you have to love this set up: house is below, this is off the road, behind a fence, you must take the lift up to the "viewing platform"
Smiling now, but I'm about to start the climb!
Took a couple of "shortcuts," one of which put me about 700 meters too high. See the church? I need to be over there... Oops. 😢
A truly beautiful place! Time to stroll to the market and decide what's for dinner...
Ciao!
Update:
Fresh pasta, garlic, zucchini, olive oil and an excellent 2014 Barolo. 😁. They need better wine glasses...I'll suffer thru...I did notice a decanter somewhere...
Update Due
We were about to get another boomer, lightning, thunder, and then it literally "turned right." Pretty spectacular.
