The European Chronicles 2024.19 - A Few Final Thoughts From The Couch

July 29, 2024

The European Chronicles 2024.19 - A Few Final Thoughts From The Couch

The Greatest Hits...Remain

It was never about the riding.

Well, a little about the riding. But, this was Krisanne's retirement trip; we just happened to do it on a motorcycle because...me. 😂

I laughed out loud when she suggested a "greatest hits" ride, mostly because Krisanne was concerned that I'd "have" to do all these places/roads/rides "again." Like it was some hardship. I could ride the Alps every year until I die and be a very, very happy man. And, I really wanted her to experience this area.

Walking, uh I mean hiking, was going to take a higher priority, and it did. The Alps is not only a riding paradise, it's also nirvana for anyone who wants to be outdoors. Well marked trails, with a plethora of "huts" offering fantastic food, multi-cultural interaction and, perhaps most important, beer. 😂. Krisanne's jam. Dr. Wenowdis was pretty sure she'd like it.

For me, going back to, and staying longer at, places I like allows for a deeper dive, the chance to peel the onion a bit. All these areas are steeped in history, more to learn, more to do and always, always more roads to ride. No hardship at all. You find a way to struggle thru... 😎

I must also say that there was great joy is hearing Krisanne say, "This is the most beautiful place I've ever seen," multiple times, sequentially, as we went from place to place. I kinda knew Pitztal would be the cherry on the sundae for her, and it was, and why it was last. I was gobsmacked the first time in 2019; love going back.

This year's stats reflect the "other than riding" priorities:

2500 miles

53 mpg

32 mph

Low on the mileage, intentionally; impressed with the 53 mpg, loaded 2-up, only 1-2 down from solo; the average speed is normal for the Alps, at least that's my normal... To that point, the "slow travel" concept is really working for us, nice not to rush through everything and have time to explore.

The highlights, for me, were really the people along the way:

Valdobbiadene...not for the riding, but for the beauty, culture and learning about Prosecco. Most of all: Alberto, the owner of Roggia dei Cedri, where we stayed, and the adjacent winery, Ciodet. His knowledge, kindness and enthusiasm transformed the stay from merely terrific to sublime.

In the blue t-shirt, helping us find Bia.

And driving us around in his restored Rover.

It was such an unexpected magical experience. We'll be ordering some of this as soon as the weather cools:

Collalbo, the Dolomites and Bemelmans Post...this is THE riding location, there are so many interesting roads and villages in the Dolomites, it is the top of the pyramid. And the town itself is charming, with an interesting way into Bolzano: the historic train to the cable car, so much fun! Also hard to beat the view:

But what made this for me was running into Christian from Edelweiss. If it were not for the overwhelmingly positive experience I had with him on my first Edelweiss trip in 2005, I really doubt any of the European Chronicles would be happening. It is hard to believe that we met almost 20 years ago...

We had the chance to share meals with Christian and his Alps Riding Academy students, Werner and Julie, for much of the week, a real added bonus. Great folks.

Certosa/Karthaus, the Goldene Rose and the food/wine/company. There was no doubt that the Goldene Rose was going to be at or near the top of our hotel experience, and it was. But the surprise was Alexander, their sommelier, our Taste of Italy experience, and the endlessly flowing wine dinner afterward we shared with Caroline and David from the UAE and Skip and Andy from the UK. Never has 2 am been so much fun. 😎. Best food of the trip, by far, and that's saying something because all the food, everywhere, was fantastic.

He's Italian, so the hands are always moving...I can relate.

Have to find more of this:

Plus, the challenge of Stelvio is nearby...

Water and the saunameisters...living in the desert, now for 18 years, gives me a newfound appreciation for water...how it feels, tastes, smells. Not humid-on-the-beach or in-the-tropics water, not treated with every chemical known to man water, but rather mountain water, glacial water; crisp air infused with clean water. Water is everywhere in the Alps, it is a way of life.

Nothing embodies that more visibly than the wellness sauna, with all the rituals surrounding it. All the hotels, except for Roggia dei Cedri in Valdobbiadene, were "spa hotels," sauna, steam, whirlpool, showers...water, water everywhere. It feels both luxurious and hedonistic to ride/hike, get back at 4 pm, hit the sauna, then cocktail hour, then dinner...ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Bliss.

The Vier Jahreszeiten had an "event sauna"; almost every day, starting at 4 pm and on the hour thereafter, a sauna master would come and conduct a "sauna infusion." Different aromatic waters are poured over the hot rocks; the hot air then whipped around the room and at you with towels and fans. I know, I know...it sounds crazy to most Americans, but it is effing awesome!

Tom and Mario were our saunameisters and on our very last day, Mario had an event with a stone pine tree infusion, while telling us (in multiple languages) how this local tree is used for everything in the area made from wood, how it has essential oils that are considered calming and how a local schnapps is created from the needles. Best of all, after the sauna infusion, he provided that local schnapps for all to share. A fitting last sauna, something we'll never experience here in the US.

Mia, as always, was flawless and Stefan's service perfect. Love these bikes.

I do want to throw in a least favorite thing: the Autobahn. Ironic, isn't it? For many Americans, myself included, the Autobahn has this "mythical" quality...how can this be? and I can't wait to experience it. Part of that is reality, but mostly not, at least recently. There's been one point on every one of my trips since 2019 where a "quick day" was required, but each year, the Autobahn has seemed to get more crowded, with more, significant, delays. That sucks the fun out of it, and also negates the purpose.

Even on the unlimited sections, perhaps especially on the unlimited sections, it's not much fun on a Moto. Going fast in a straight line is, well, boring. Just like here, you don't see much. Charles Kuralt said: Thanks to the Interstaes, it is now possible to travel coast-to-coast and see absolutely nothing. The Autobahn is no different; the nothing just happens faster. 😎

But the very best thing about this trip was being able to share it with Krisanne. I've had the great good fortune to be able to do these extended European trips since 2019, and now we can do them together. Can't wait for more.

Thank you all for tagging along...until next year!

Ciao!