The European Chronicles 2022.15. The Turn And Some Observations

 The Turn For Home

It happens every extended trip; the sense it is winding down coupled with the longing for home.  This year was no different.

I haven't done a lot of riding since getting to Casa Olea mostly because the weather has changed a bit, with fog and thunderstorms in the morning, clearing during the mid-day, then more t-storms in the evening.  Riding high mountain passes in that kind of weather is, well, not my first choice, especially if I don't have to be somewhere.

Turn on the sound...

Over the span of 15 minutes one evening:

Storm closing in on the sun.

Can you see the ferry lights?

The "lake lifestyle" seemed more appealing and perhaps contributed to my motivation failure.

Those are grape vines that form the canopy.

Some local entertainment

"C'mon, he's getting away!"

Taking the bus back up to Casa Olea...here's what happens on these little roads.

I'm going to enjoy la dolce vita here at Casa Olea for the next few days.  Monday, I'll take the ferry to Menaggio, then head to the Black Forest, to Stefan's on Tuesday, flying home Thursday.  Looking forward to it!

A Few Observations

Once again, let's start off with gratitude.  I am incredibly lucky to be doing this, on every possible level.  It is the dream of a lifetime and I get to live it now.  Color me grateful.

Tension

In my now slower, retired travel, I pay much more attention to how things "feel" in different places, and year to year.  The biggest single difference in Europe this year:  people don't seem as happy.  There's a tension that wasn't there last year; Europe is under stress right now and you can feel it.  Less smiling, less laughing, less interaction.  More smoking, much more smoking.  The ongoing pandemic, Russia's war on Ukraine, a looming recession, skyrocketing energy prices, a multi-country drought, the threat of a nuclear plant disaster...the collapse of the governments in the UK and Italy...the uncertainty is on the surface. 

Frankly, I don't know how it could be otherwise.  While the US has its own crazy to deal with, I don't want to minimize that, the Ukraine war is in Western Europe's backyard, with a proximity that most in the US don't really comprehend.  For example, Kyiv is about 1000 miles from Casa Olea.  That's about the same distance as the wine country of Mendocino, CA is from our home in Tucson, AZ.  As an American, reflect on that for a moment.  One state and 1000 miles away from your home, a city has been brutally attacked and bombed, thousands have been killed and displaced, the madman attacker has cut off your energy supply just before winter threatening both your family's wellbeing and your economy, and is recklessly occupying a nuclear plant that could spew radiation your way.  We need to do everything we can to ensure Putin's failure.

Fantastic Riding

On to more pleasant things...Europe continues to be the site of awesome roads, cafes and hotels.  There's simply nothing anywhere else like the quantity and quality of riding roads that the Alps offer, certainly not in North America.  And every one of them, every single one, has multiple great cafes and hotels along the route.  Just fantastic.

I really enjoyed getting to the French Alps.  Slightly, just slightly, more open than the Dolomites, the views are spectacular.  There's much more to explore there for me: I have to make the area a "target" and stay for many more days.  Such a bonus that the pass photographer happened to be at the Col de l'Iseran when I rode thru.

I will say this, though, about the French:  pedestrians are suicidal.  They will simply walk out into the roadway, Gauloise dangling from their lips, cloud of smoke around their head, small child holding their right hand, small dog tethered to their left, and without even a soupçon of a glance, assuming everything and everyone will, but of course, stop.

The Edelweiss Alps Riding Academy was well worth the price of admission.  For about the same cost as a two day Yamaha Champions track school, considering the hotels and meals, I got a week of training specifically relevant to my current riding objective.  Practicing those techniques every day, all day, on ever more challenging roads was truly instructive...old dogs really can learn new tricks.

That made passes like Gavia merely a "challenge," with an "I've got this" approach that I will admit I didn't have before.  Plus, it was great to see Christian again and meet a good group of fellow riders.

The Grossglockner and Nockalstrasse were also well worth the toll; the Grossglockner in particular has breathtaking scenery.

Fantastic Hotels

Hotel prices in the US post-pandemic (can we really say that?) have increased substantially, with simple middle of the road chains like Comfort Inn and Holiday Inn costing $125-150/night.  One of my go to hotels on the way to California, the Hilton Garden Inn in Yuma, AZ is now $200/night. In Yuma, and that does not include breakfast.   With the Euro/Dollar parity, European hotels are great value for money, offering many more amenities than a typical US hotel of similar price and much, much more character.

The most expensive hotels on this trip were Bemelmans Post in Collalbo, Italy and Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten in Pitztal, Austria.  Both were euro 150/night with half board, a full breakfast and dinner.  Everything else was around euro 100/night with breakfast.  And all these meals, breakfast and dinners, were substantial, really more food than you could possibly eat and very, very high quality.  Almost all the hotels have "wellness areas" with sauna, whirlpool, steam room, etc.  

In fairness, some of this advantage is because I'm a solo traveler and European hotels change by the number of guests, not just the room.  That said, the hotels are more interesting, with character that US chains don't offer.  And the food is spectacular, farm to table fresh, with all offering great on-site restaurants.  Try finding that in the Southwest US, which is not just a desert, but a food desert as well.

And like Europe in general, the hotels are all Moto-friendly, many offering covered or underground parking.  In the US, I've been turned away because I was riding a motorcycle, even with a reservation, and it is rare that you get a "happy to see you" vibe when you show up on a bike.

I do my best writing over wine and dinner... allegedly.  😎

Ciao!