The European Chronicles 2022.11. Vrsic Pass And The Nockalmstrasse
Happiness = Reality - Expectations
To paraphrase Noraly "Itchy Boots" Schoenmaker, "Welcome to Slovenia!"
After the Grossglockner, I wanted to work my way east; the weather looked ok, but finding a hotel proved a bit difficult. Ideally, I wanted to stay in Italy, near the Slovenia border, and be able to do "loops," but virtually everything that looked interesting was booked. I did make a reservation at a terrific place, but realized right after I made it, I got the dates wrong, as in the wrong month. At least I figured it out before I arrived...
Found a place in Austria, near the Red Bull Ring, which would still allow me to do interesting "loops," and if the weather turned for the worse, there's a museum at the Ring that would be fun to tour.
Uneventful ride there, through mostly Austrian farmland surrounded by mountains.
Planning for the next day...
Local band night...
Appreciate the little things...offset saucer makes room for the spoon. Subtle and clever.
Vrsic Pass...Slovenia
Vrsic Pass is noteworthy because many, if not most, of the turns have cobblestone pavers...that's right, ONLY in the hairpin turns, the rest is asphalt. It is in the Julian Alps, and on Edelweiss' "most beautiful roads of the Alps" list.
I respectfully disagree.
As you cross into Slovenia from Austria, you go over a smaller pass to get to Vrsic, and they've just built a casino there. This kinda set the tone for me...I'm not a fan of government building/subsidizing an industry guaranteed to take money from those least able to afford it, in the name of economic progress. But I digress...
Vrsic Pass itself is busy; to be fair, I did this ride on a Sunday. Lots of walkers, hikers, bicyclists, motorcycles, cars, campers...and cows. Had several Bovine Blockades as groups crossed the road.
The road itself is in very poor condition, especially the cobblestone corners. Very bumpy, frost heaved, potholed.
Basically, what you're doing is picking your way up the mountain avoiding hazards. Challenging, yes...fun, not so much. Like diffusing a bomb is challenging, but not a lot of fun. Or so I imagine.
Glad I did it, but won't rush back. Even if you take away the crowds and cows, the road is still crap. One of the reasons I like riding Europe is that the roads are so much better than in the US...not Vrsic.
On the way back...got wood?
The hotel has a very nice "backyard."
The Nockalmstrasse...Grossglockner's Little Sister
Now this...THIS was a ride. Fantastic loop, a great mix of sweepers, tight technical stuff, open roads, views, everything good. Little to no traffic. A great ride.
The loop:
Turn left.
Pay your toll, start the climb. First break...Cappuccino on the Corner...
Mia waiting her turn...
In addition to the cafe, this is actually a fossil museum.
Good strudel, too. 😎
Heading up...
As always, the party at the top.
The exit...
Nowhere near as high as Grossglockner, nor as dramatic, but a beautiful, scenic, fun ride.
Working my way back to the hotel...Boo!
Great riding roads. Zero traffic.
Riding along, I see a sign for an auto museum, with this out front...pull in...
Closed because it's Monday, but this turned out to be the Gerhard Porsche Automuseum, Gerhard Porsche Automuseum
"How much is that Porsche in the window, the one with the wing on the tail. How much is that Porsche in the window, I do hope that Porsche's for sale."
A cool stumble-upon, even if it was closed.
Big Blue, now enjoying life with my friend Bill...
Memories...
This was a fun loop that I hope to do again.
But tomorrow, ritorno in Italia!
Ciao!
