Tuscany...and...
Tuscany...and...
A dream vacation, really. First, a week in Florence. A train ride to Bologna to tour the Ducati and Pagani factories, and the Ferrari and Lamborghini museums. Then an Edelweiss motorcycle tour through Tuscany 2-up on a Ducati Multistrada 1260S.
Culture and history. Beautiful design and horsepower. Rolling countryside and wine. Cafes and coffee. Rossi's ranch and Misano.
La bella vita.
And a plan emerges for more, much more.
Florence, first
We learned a thing to two from our Scotland trip: plan the sightseeing before the motorcycle trip. That way, any jet lag is behind you before riding and, even more importantly, if your luggage with all the motorcycle gear is delayed, you have time for it to arrive without affecting the plans. We got lucky in Scotland, our bags arrived on time, but were delayed on the homeward leg.
So we started with a week in Florence, at a rented apartment 2 blocks off the Arno river, and walking distance to everything. The killer part: a rooftop deck overlooking the river and the Duomo.
Florence is art overload; world-class museums, historic buildings and street art everywhere. We bought an all access pass to the museums, well worth it, and you skip all the lines.
Setting out to explore.
Heading over the Ponte Vecchio
Really adorable watercolor Fiats. Of course we had to buy a few...
On the other side of the Ponte Vecchio is the Pitti Palace and they just happened to be having an Elegance of Speed exhibition, including some very interesting automobiles parked out front. The Palace was originally built by Luca Pitti, a Florentine banker, in 1458. The Medici family bought it in 1549 and it became the main residence of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Napoleon used it as a power base in the late 18th century. Today, it is the largest museum complex in Florence, and has the Boboli Gardens directly behind it.
Bond, James Bond
There's even art inside, can you believe it?
And one very angry woman...
Art works up a powerful hunger!
We came back the next day to walk through Boboli Gardens
Quite a few older Fiats
We also took a double decker tour bus around Florence. It was surprisingly interesting, and a very good way to get oriented to the city. It was a "hop on, hop off" set up, so allowed for exploring.
Piazzale Michelangelo and the view of Florence. Built in the 1800s, with a bronze replica of David. Great restaurant just behind; we'll come back later for antipasti, vino and the sunset.
Not David
Krisanne in her natural habitat
You have to be comfortable being close in Italy
And back to Piazzale Michelangelo at Ristorante La Loggia, fantastic restaurant with unparalleled views over the city. David is a replica; we'll see the original later.
Indeed
Buongiorno
Museo Novecento
The Museo Novecento is on the Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, and they were shooting a movie while we were there. No idea what, but assume it is an "action adventure" flick...look for the lime green Alfas chasing or being chased by a black Range Rover at a theatre near you!
And every good movie deserves gelato, which is absolutely incredible.
Update: I later learned that the movie is called 6 Underground
Worst Movie EVER!!!
The Uffizi Gallery has one of the largest collections of Renaissance work in the world. The original building was started in 1560 for the Medici family, and completed in 1581. It was originally designed as offices, or "uffizi," for the Florentine magistrates.
Botticelli, The Birth of Venus
And his La Primavera
Looking down on the Ponte Vecchio
Time for a coffee at the Uffizi cafe
Michelangelo's David. Sculpted in 1501 and standing 35 feet tall. It was moved to it's current location, the Galleria del'Academia, in 1873. Truly a sight to behold.
That evening we enjoyed a magnificent sunset from our roof, and a jazz concert we stumbled upon in one of the piazzas, along with a wonderful meal outside at an adjacent restaurant.
Ducati, Lamborghini, Ferrari and Pagani
Off to Bologna the next day on the high speed train, hitting 280 kph, 174 mph, smooth as silk.
Our destination: Borgo Panigale, the Ducati factory and museum. Unfortunately, they do not allow pictures in the factory, only in the museum.
Ducati is owned by VW, and run by the Audi division, which also runs Lamborghini, hence the mix of vehicles. Inside the factory is a long hallway that is their apprentice area, where young interns learn the skills necessary for a future at Ducati/Lamborghini/Audi.
Dovi's bike
Carbon fiber Ohlins forks, yum!
Check out that triple clamp!
The first Ducati
Dr. T's handiwork
Mike the Bike's bike
I spent many a day, and many a dollar, at Fast by Ferracci. Had the pleasure of meeting Eraldo, an incredibly nice guy.
25 years ago, the start of the Monster. Looking forward to the Anniversario!
Gone, but not forgotten
Stoner's work space
I've never worked in a factory, so the tour was particularly interesting. A few different assembly lines, each dedicated to individual models. Each technician works about 3 hours on any specific station/task, then switches. Their "core" people are cross trained on different tasks and models, and rotate around as needed. Less so for the additional people they hire during peak season. At the factory itself, Ducati makes only 2 items: crankshafts and camshafts. They have sophisticated CNC milling equipment that turns out both. Everything else is sourced from third party suppliers, including frames, tanks, suspension, electronics...everything. The parts for each bike are picked in the warehouse and placed on a cart at the start of the assembly line, every bolt, nut, washer, etc., and it moves down the line with the bike. There are assembly lines for each type of motor; once the motor is built, it is pressure run, then moved to the bike assembly line. Once built, each bike goes to the dyno room for a final running check.
The new variable valve timing 1260 motor
It will be in one of these, and we'll be 2-up through Tuscany in just a few days!
Lamborghini
The Miura...yum!
Due GTs
Carbon fibre tub, aluminium subframes
Incredibly light!
Their entry into today's SUV game, the Urus
And their original SUV, the LM002, circa 1986, with, of course, a V12
RIP Burt, The Gumball Rally
Good timing on the TV!
Ciao!
Pagani
The Zonda and it's many variations
It is very hard to convey the "bespoke" nature of any Pagani. Each are built to specific order, and the usual out the door price is $3.5-4 million. They make 35 each year. Everything, and I mean everything, is made from carbon fiber, aluminum, titanium and leather. There is no plastic, none. They make their own carbon fiber; in the factory are 2 very large gleaming stainless steel autoclaves the size of a small house. Adjacent is a clean room where they lay up the carbon fiber, bag it, suck all the air out, and get it ready for baking in the autoclave. Special attention is paid to every carbon fiber edge so all the patterns line up precisely, enabling an unpainted option that is drool-worthy.
Like here on a mirror that weighs...nothing
The signature exhaust
Waiting to take delivery, with her optional matching credential holder...sweet!!
The Zonda, however, is so, so yesterday. Enter the Huayra (say why ra)...active aero, gull wing doors and more speed...
There are 4 active aero flaps, 2 front, 2 rear. Each operates independently to balance the car front/rear and left/right at speed, and to enhance cornering grip.
An interesting map of what's called "Motor Valley." All the Italian exotic automobile and motorcycle manufacturers are located along this valley. Not to mention all the suppliers.
No photos allowed inside the Pagani factory, which itself is a work of art. Arranged like a city piazza, including a working bell tower, each vehicle is on a wheeled aluminum stand and is pushed from area to area. It is high ceilinged, and naturally lit, so it almost feels like you're standing and, I imagine, working outside. The bell tower rings for lunch. Several customer cars are lined up for service...you either ship the car back to Pagani, or there are 4 "Pagani Doctors" that fly around the world for service. But if you crash it, there's only one place you can get Pagani spares...
At the end of our tour we came upon a loading dock with a waiting Zonda. At the dock was a white canvas sided trailer, just wide enough for the car. The canvas sides rolled up to let the driver out, and presumably back in. The trailer was towed by an equally nondescript Jeep Cherokee. The Zonda starts up; OMG. Really, OMG. A cacophony of wonderful noise. It is eased onto the trailer, the canvas rolled down, and the Jeep pulls away. No one would know there's $4 million in tow.
Through rolling farmland we head to lunch. Fresh pasta made on site, as tasty as a Pagani...
The local vino...e fantastico!
Ferrari
It was bound to be a bit of a let down after Pagani. You can really see where your extra $2-3 million goes. There is actual, genuine plastic on a Ferrari. But the racing pedigree is second to none.
The road cars have always paid the bills
Had to try the simulator before we left. I believe I now hold the lap record through the gravel traps at Monza... Although they do a good job with 3 screens of visuals, there's absolutely no feel to the steering, brake or through the seat, so really it is just a video game. Makes you realize how much you depend on those tactile inputs to control a car.
The high speed train back to Florence, and we're about to embark on the ride through Tuscany! We'll miss this wonderful apartment and its roof top deck.
But before we leave, a few words and photos about the Florence street art scene and the local Scooterati
Street art is everywhere in Florence
One artist decorates the street signs
The Scooterati swarm like bees! It is awe inspiring to watch them fearlessly carve traffic...we'll take some of these lessons to heart later!
A Ducati thru Tuscany
The Edelweiss tour starts in Donnini, a small town nestled in farmland and vineyards, about 30 minutes outside of Florence. Instead of taking a taxi, we take the local train to S'Ellero, about 3 euro each, and we have the train mostly to ourselves. Fun fact: unlike the high speed trains, and most trains I've been on, the doors do not open automatically when the train pulls into the station. We'd still be standing in front of the closed doors but for the very nice guy sitting near us that motioned "push the button" while we were looking befuddled. Thanks!
A quick taxi from S'Ellero climbs to Villa Pitiana, a circa 1310 fortified farmhouse and the beginning and end of the Tuscany tour. https://www.villapitiana.com/
Beyond these gates be dragons...
Time to introduce myself
See the tower with the 3 windows? That's the Tower Room, aka, our room. Tough duty, with our own staircase and chandelier.
Bike check in, paperwork signing, a quick briefing and introductions. Then on to the restaurant for Bistecca alla Florentina, at least for me...
To the manor born...if only...
An evening stroll; she's trying to memorize the insurance number...
Day 1...to Siena
The morning briefing, with the biggest damn map ever made. Time for some adult route coloring. We've got an eclectic bunch, 4 guys from Canada, a couple from Ohio, another from Reno; Pennsylvania and California are also represented. Very nice folks, all excited to start the ride! Various skill levels as well, but that sorts itself out by the first lunch.
And, we're off! We've got an Asian tourist cheering section to wish us on our way.
Our first stop would be Greve, in the Chianti region, and the Piazza Matteotti. Oh, and big props to Krisanne, our photo documentarian. She's not only a fantastic pillion, but a great back seat photographer. All the "road" shots are by her on the back. Just another of her amazing skills...
Greve was home to Giovanni da Verrazzano, who discovered the New York harbor, and now has the Verrazano bridge named after him.
Hmmm...I believe this statue is called "Envy."
Some vintage Alfas enjoying the sunshine
Lunch! Every meal in Italy was incredible. Small farms dot the landscape throughout this region and "farm to table" is an everyday reality. You taste it everywhere you go, and do not need to make any effort to find a good restaurant.
We HAVE to come back and do some wine tasting!
Next up, the towers of San Gimignano, the "Manhattan of the Middle Ages."
Following Ray, more about our fabulous guides later.
How the hell does this lock work? More on the Ducati luggage later too...
We end day 1 in Siena, with vine covered parking and some well earned libations at The Garden Hotel https://www.gardenhotel.it/en/
That's Hendricks, cucumber, Schweppes and pepper. We had to come to Italy to learn how to make the perfect G&T.
Day 2, a not really a rest day
This is an "option" day; explore Siena or go for a ride. Krisanne strolls into the city, I motor into the country.
The City Mouse
The Country Mouse
We'll be following Ursula to the Abbazia di San Galgano ruins today, while Ray puts his chef's hat on and prepares a picnic lunch for later.
An Abby in the Mist
Abandoned in the 15th century. It was the first Gothic church built in Tuscany; construction began in 1220 and was completed six decades later.
An Agriturismo is a working small farm that also rents rooms. The Italian government provides incentives for this in an effort to keep small farms viable. They are scattered throughout the hillsides and look like an interesting experience we'll have to try some day.
After winding our way back to the Garden Hotel in Siena, Krisanne and I meet back up for a picnic catered by some guy on a broomstick...
We were planning to walk back into Siena for dinner, but with a looming thunderstorm, decided that the patio looked far too inviting to leave.
Our favorite bartender was back on duty!
The boomer rolls thru while we hide under an umbrella and we're rewarded with this:
Day 3, Siena to Assisi
Filtering to the front. No issues, completely expected. Nirvana. In fact, all thru Italy cars would make room, but you have to "take your space." Hesitate and that space will be gone in an instant.
The woman in red...
Wheeeeee
No rain...yet...
Heading into Montalcino, known for it's Brunello wine. The town was a 14th century fortress for the Medici dukes. These folks knew how to live...can you imagine it?
You don't want a "thumbs down."
Bagno Vignoni is next, with 36 hot springs that bubble into a pool built by, guess who, the Medici. AND a PICNIC!
On to Assisi. There were a few "lost souls" along the way, and the route had a "heavenly" greeting for us.
The found waiting for the lost...
Back on track
Hey, baby, c'mon over here, let me buy you a house!
Looking pretty dark...you've got one guess.
Beer and indoor parking await at Hotel Giotto http://www.hotelgiottoassisi.i
Holy Mother of God Water. Rode right thru it...love our Aerostich!
Day 4...exploring Assisi
No riding for us today, instead we take off on foot to wander Assisi.
Better weather today for sure!
Best purse ev-ah! One of a kind, handmade locally. Heading to Basilica di San Francisco.
Assisi is a city of nooks and crannies, all made of stone. It has a wonderful relaxed feeling to it.
Look carefully
Old and new. Just looks "right."
The Temple of Minerva. Built by the Romans in 1 BC; the columns were carved directly out of the hillside. On either side of the altar are drains to catch the blood from the sacrificed. The adjacent church was built in 1539.
Outside the Basilica di Santa Chiara
Roman baths at the Ansiteatro Romano
Day 5, Assisi to the Republic of San Marino, the oldest republic in Europe
Arrivederci!
Trasimeno Lake
Cortona for a coffee
Lunch!
Twisties!
And our own band!
Urbino, "the town on two hills," the birth place of the painter Raphael and, later, much later, The Doctor, Valentino Rossi..cue the applause...
Heading to San Marino, today's destination. This is a "shining city on the hill" visible for miles as you approach. Unfortunately, it is tough to capture without sophisticated photography equipment, but here it is, right on the hilltop:
Break time
Climbing up to the top...
The Grand Hotel, our base for 2 nights. https://www.grandhotel.sm/it/
The reward:
From our balcony
Day 6...to the sea, a memorial, the ranch and the track
We're off!
A bit of traffic heading to the Adriatic, but taking a chapter from the Scooterati handbook, we filter and lane split to put it behind us. Easy, peasy.
Rimini, the home of whatever is left of Bimota
According to Ursula, every year German tourists come to and fill this Adriatic beach...to the same table, umbrella and location they have reserved. Same bat time, same bat channel, year in, year out. She kept referring to it as the "German BBQ" beach, perhaps not the best descriptor...
Enjoying her day at the beach
Off to the Marco Simoncelli memorial and museum. If you don't know "Sic" was an up and coming motogp racer until his untimely death at the 2011 Sepang race. He was a true talent and a real character. RIP Sic!
The exhaust pipe memorial...it shoots flames on schedule...only in Italy!
And a stop at the Misano race circuit, now named after Simoncelli
It is time to climb up, up, up for lunch over the Adriatic.
What a view! But I'm biased...
Somebody worked hard for their lunch...Ray...
Almost too idyllic to leave, but we want to have at least an overlook of Valentino Rossi's "Ranch," his personal, world class training facility that helps keep the now 39 year old motogp racer at the sharp end of the grid. A legend, and very likely the "GOAT"...Greatest Of All Time.
Nearby is The Doctor's official store and cafe. I have to get my 46 cappuccino. And as luck would have it, Rossi himself is live on TV qualifying for Aragon. Pretty cool!!
Heading back to San Marino
There she is
Around the final turn and down into the garage
Tonight, we're heading to Nido del Falco, the Falcon's Nest, a restaurant at the top of the hill with food to match the view
Day 7...back to Donnini and Villa Pitiana
We'll head back via Passo del Muraglione, a mountain road that divides Tuscany and Emilia Romagna. Years ago, the road was closed on Sundays...for racing. The locals have not forgotten!!
Ursula leads us up
There's a party at the top, true on almost every pass in Europe. Quite a contrast to the US, where all you get is a porta potty and a sign. Great to hang and watch the bikes come and go
Heading back down
A local winds his way thru the crowd. Awesome job by Krisanne catching him on the move.
And we're back at Villa Pitiana!
We're not in the Tower Room this time, but still...
A few words about Edelweiss and our Tour Guides
This is my second Edelweiss tour and they have both been wonderful experiences. They do a first rate job, very organized, great hotels, great restaurants, bikes in excellent condition. Our tour guides, Ursula and Ray, were exceptional. Both fantastic riders, fun people and extremely knowledgeable about the area, the history and the roads. They have a challenging job, a bit like herding cats, and they do it with grace.
And what about the Multistrada 1260S?
We were very much looking forward to this extended test ride and, for the most part, were very impressed with the bike. The new 1260 motor has eliminated the biggest problem with the 1200: the torque dip in the middle of the rev range. It now delivers power everywhere, and the DVT system does a good job making that power tractable all the way down to 2500 rpm. The Skyhook suspension is also very good, compliant and controlled. We smacked the center stand down only once...
My biggest complaint surrounds the luggage, which feels flimsy and does not allow you to leave the bags latched and unlocked. This seemingly small thing makes using them a PITA b/c you have to fish the key out every single time, for every single bag. And I do mean fish, because it has a keyless ride system (which BMW is also now using, and I simply do not understand the value), so the key fob is always buried in your pocket. Dumb. This bike had only 6k kilometers on it; the right heated grip did not work, and it would only randomly go into the different ride modes. A bit frustrating.
It is, however, a very exciting bike to ride. Instant launch you to the moon power, confidence inspiring handling and truly comfortable, for both rider and passenger. It is also nice to be flat footed, the Multi has a very narrow waist that helps, especially 2-up and stopping frequently. The other side of the exciting coin is that it is not a relaxed bike; she wants to go go go...now. The proverbial double edged sword.
Could I live with it? Sure. I just don't know that I'd buy one as my touring mount. Maybe if I could have only one bike.
What's Next?
This trip again confirmed for me that I want to spend more time in Europe, and more time riding in Europe. When we got home, I continued to research ways to keep a bike there so fly and ride vacations could be easier, less expensive than renting a bike, and longer. Also, as good as the Edelweiss tours are, I want to explore on my own...wander around a bit and get lost...see what happens. Meet more locals.
I discovered what amounts to a "motorcycle B&B" in Heidelberg, Germany. They will arrange shipment of your US plated bike from LA, store it in their heated warehouse, have an on-site workshop for minor maintenance, and adjacent rooms to rent for arrival and departure. All for less than you might expect, about $1400 to ship and $350/year to store. Plus, you can purchase "green card" insurance in 30 day increments to ride around the EU for about $300. You can ship your motorcycle gear with the bike and store it there as well, letting us travel light. Because AZ does not require motorcycle inspections, the bike never has to come back to keep it registered.
Time to take the plunge. We thought about shipping our current 2011 BMW 1200GS over, but decided that it is really bigger than we need for the little roads in Europe we want to explore. I wanted something lighter, that I could flat foot, but still would travel well. I found a very lightly used BMW F800GT in California, did a fly and ride to pick it up and rode it home. This is the bike we rented in Scotland and liked. It has "enough" of everything...enough power, handling, luggage...to make it a good choice for about 7-10 years of riding Europe.
Recharging in Yuma
We're riding it around a bit locally, and I'll fully service it before she heads back to the Fatherland in mid-February. Later in 2019, I'll fly into Frankfurt, pick up the bike and wander thru Germany, Switzerland, maybe Austria, finding my way to Varenna, Italy on Lake Como. Krisanne will fly into Milan and we'll meet up. Spend some time on the lake and riding the Italian Alps, she'll fly back, I'll ride back to Heidelberg, store the bike, then head home.
Press the "repeat" button every year, with a different target destination. Norway, Spain, Portugal, Scotland again. Wherever. We'll run out of time and money before we run out of good places to see.
That's the plan anyway! Wish us luck!
A dream vacation, really. First, a week in Florence. A train ride to Bologna to tour the Ducati and Pagani factories, and the Ferrari and Lamborghini museums. Then an Edelweiss motorcycle tour through Tuscany 2-up on a Ducati Multistrada 1260S.
Culture and history. Beautiful design and horsepower. Rolling countryside and wine. Cafes and coffee. Rossi's ranch and Misano.
La bella vita.
And a plan emerges for more, much more.
Florence, first
We learned a thing to two from our Scotland trip: plan the sightseeing before the motorcycle trip. That way, any jet lag is behind you before riding and, even more importantly, if your luggage with all the motorcycle gear is delayed, you have time for it to arrive without affecting the plans. We got lucky in Scotland, our bags arrived on time, but were delayed on the homeward leg.
So we started with a week in Florence, at a rented apartment 2 blocks off the Arno river, and walking distance to everything. The killer part: a rooftop deck overlooking the river and the Duomo.
Florence is art overload; world-class museums, historic buildings and street art everywhere. We bought an all access pass to the museums, well worth it, and you skip all the lines.
Setting out to explore.
Heading over the Ponte Vecchio
Really adorable watercolor Fiats. Of course we had to buy a few...
On the other side of the Ponte Vecchio is the Pitti Palace and they just happened to be having an Elegance of Speed exhibition, including some very interesting automobiles parked out front. The Palace was originally built by Luca Pitti, a Florentine banker, in 1458. The Medici family bought it in 1549 and it became the main residence of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Napoleon used it as a power base in the late 18th century. Today, it is the largest museum complex in Florence, and has the Boboli Gardens directly behind it.
Bond, James Bond
There's even art inside, can you believe it?
And one very angry woman...
Art works up a powerful hunger!
Quite a few older Fiats
We also took a double decker tour bus around Florence. It was surprisingly interesting, and a very good way to get oriented to the city. It was a "hop on, hop off" set up, so allowed for exploring.
Piazzale Michelangelo and the view of Florence. Built in the 1800s, with a bronze replica of David. Great restaurant just behind; we'll come back later for antipasti, vino and the sunset.
Not David
Krisanne in her natural habitat
You have to be comfortable being close in Italy
And back to Piazzale Michelangelo at Ristorante La Loggia, fantastic restaurant with unparalleled views over the city. David is a replica; we'll see the original later.
Indeed
Buongiorno
Museo Novecento
The Museo Novecento is on the Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, and they were shooting a movie while we were there. No idea what, but assume it is an "action adventure" flick...look for the lime green Alfas chasing or being chased by a black Range Rover at a theatre near you!
And every good movie deserves gelato, which is absolutely incredible.
Update: I later learned that the movie is called 6 Underground
Worst Movie EVER!!!
The Uffizi Gallery has one of the largest collections of Renaissance work in the world. The original building was started in 1560 for the Medici family, and completed in 1581. It was originally designed as offices, or "uffizi," for the Florentine magistrates.
Botticelli, The Birth of Venus
And his La Primavera
Looking down on the Ponte Vecchio
Time for a coffee at the Uffizi cafe
Michelangelo's David. Sculpted in 1501 and standing 35 feet tall. It was moved to it's current location, the Galleria del'Academia, in 1873. Truly a sight to behold.
That evening we enjoyed a magnificent sunset from our roof, and a jazz concert we stumbled upon in one of the piazzas, along with a wonderful meal outside at an adjacent restaurant.
Ducati, Lamborghini, Ferrari and Pagani
Off to Bologna the next day on the high speed train, hitting 280 kph, 174 mph, smooth as silk.
Our destination: Borgo Panigale, the Ducati factory and museum. Unfortunately, they do not allow pictures in the factory, only in the museum.
Ducati is owned by VW, and run by the Audi division, which also runs Lamborghini, hence the mix of vehicles. Inside the factory is a long hallway that is their apprentice area, where young interns learn the skills necessary for a future at Ducati/Lamborghini/Audi.
Dovi's bike
Carbon fiber Ohlins forks, yum!
Check out that triple clamp!
The first Ducati
Dr. T's handiwork
Mike the Bike's bike
I spent many a day, and many a dollar, at Fast by Ferracci. Had the pleasure of meeting Eraldo, an incredibly nice guy.
25 years ago, the start of the Monster. Looking forward to the Anniversario!
Gone, but not forgotten
Stoner's work space
I've never worked in a factory, so the tour was particularly interesting. A few different assembly lines, each dedicated to individual models. Each technician works about 3 hours on any specific station/task, then switches. Their "core" people are cross trained on different tasks and models, and rotate around as needed. Less so for the additional people they hire during peak season. At the factory itself, Ducati makes only 2 items: crankshafts and camshafts. They have sophisticated CNC milling equipment that turns out both. Everything else is sourced from third party suppliers, including frames, tanks, suspension, electronics...everything. The parts for each bike are picked in the warehouse and placed on a cart at the start of the assembly line, every bolt, nut, washer, etc., and it moves down the line with the bike. There are assembly lines for each type of motor; once the motor is built, it is pressure run, then moved to the bike assembly line. Once built, each bike goes to the dyno room for a final running check.
The new variable valve timing 1260 motor
It will be in one of these, and we'll be 2-up through Tuscany in just a few days!
Lamborghini
The Miura...yum!
Due GTs
Carbon fibre tub, aluminium subframes
Incredibly light!
Their entry into today's SUV game, the Urus
And their original SUV, the LM002, circa 1986, with, of course, a V12
RIP Burt, The Gumball Rally
Good timing on the TV!
Ciao!
Pagani
The Zonda and it's many variations
It is very hard to convey the "bespoke" nature of any Pagani. Each are built to specific order, and the usual out the door price is $3.5-4 million. They make 35 each year. Everything, and I mean everything, is made from carbon fiber, aluminum, titanium and leather. There is no plastic, none. They make their own carbon fiber; in the factory are 2 very large gleaming stainless steel autoclaves the size of a small house. Adjacent is a clean room where they lay up the carbon fiber, bag it, suck all the air out, and get it ready for baking in the autoclave. Special attention is paid to every carbon fiber edge so all the patterns line up precisely, enabling an unpainted option that is drool-worthy.
Like here on a mirror that weighs...nothing
The signature exhaust
Waiting to take delivery, with her optional matching credential holder...sweet!!
The Zonda, however, is so, so yesterday. Enter the Huayra (say why ra)...active aero, gull wing doors and more speed...
There are 4 active aero flaps, 2 front, 2 rear. Each operates independently to balance the car front/rear and left/right at speed, and to enhance cornering grip.
An interesting map of what's called "Motor Valley." All the Italian exotic automobile and motorcycle manufacturers are located along this valley. Not to mention all the suppliers.
No photos allowed inside the Pagani factory, which itself is a work of art. Arranged like a city piazza, including a working bell tower, each vehicle is on a wheeled aluminum stand and is pushed from area to area. It is high ceilinged, and naturally lit, so it almost feels like you're standing and, I imagine, working outside. The bell tower rings for lunch. Several customer cars are lined up for service...you either ship the car back to Pagani, or there are 4 "Pagani Doctors" that fly around the world for service. But if you crash it, there's only one place you can get Pagani spares...
At the end of our tour we came upon a loading dock with a waiting Zonda. At the dock was a white canvas sided trailer, just wide enough for the car. The canvas sides rolled up to let the driver out, and presumably back in. The trailer was towed by an equally nondescript Jeep Cherokee. The Zonda starts up; OMG. Really, OMG. A cacophony of wonderful noise. It is eased onto the trailer, the canvas rolled down, and the Jeep pulls away. No one would know there's $4 million in tow.
Through rolling farmland we head to lunch. Fresh pasta made on site, as tasty as a Pagani...
The local vino...e fantastico!
Ferrari
It was bound to be a bit of a let down after Pagani. You can really see where your extra $2-3 million goes. There is actual, genuine plastic on a Ferrari. But the racing pedigree is second to none.
The road cars have always paid the bills
Had to try the simulator before we left. I believe I now hold the lap record through the gravel traps at Monza... Although they do a good job with 3 screens of visuals, there's absolutely no feel to the steering, brake or through the seat, so really it is just a video game. Makes you realize how much you depend on those tactile inputs to control a car.
The high speed train back to Florence, and we're about to embark on the ride through Tuscany! We'll miss this wonderful apartment and its roof top deck.
But before we leave, a few words and photos about the Florence street art scene and the local Scooterati
Street art is everywhere in Florence
One artist decorates the street signs
The Scooterati swarm like bees! It is awe inspiring to watch them fearlessly carve traffic...we'll take some of these lessons to heart later!
A Ducati thru Tuscany
The Edelweiss tour starts in Donnini, a small town nestled in farmland and vineyards, about 30 minutes outside of Florence. Instead of taking a taxi, we take the local train to S'Ellero, about 3 euro each, and we have the train mostly to ourselves. Fun fact: unlike the high speed trains, and most trains I've been on, the doors do not open automatically when the train pulls into the station. We'd still be standing in front of the closed doors but for the very nice guy sitting near us that motioned "push the button" while we were looking befuddled. Thanks!
A quick taxi from S'Ellero climbs to Villa Pitiana, a circa 1310 fortified farmhouse and the beginning and end of the Tuscany tour. https://www.villapitiana.com/
Beyond these gates be dragons...
Time to introduce myself
See the tower with the 3 windows? That's the Tower Room, aka, our room. Tough duty, with our own staircase and chandelier.
Bike check in, paperwork signing, a quick briefing and introductions. Then on to the restaurant for Bistecca alla Florentina, at least for me...
To the manor born...if only...
An evening stroll; she's trying to memorize the insurance number...
Day 1...to Siena
The morning briefing, with the biggest damn map ever made. Time for some adult route coloring. We've got an eclectic bunch, 4 guys from Canada, a couple from Ohio, another from Reno; Pennsylvania and California are also represented. Very nice folks, all excited to start the ride! Various skill levels as well, but that sorts itself out by the first lunch.
And, we're off! We've got an Asian tourist cheering section to wish us on our way.
Our first stop would be Greve, in the Chianti region, and the Piazza Matteotti. Oh, and big props to Krisanne, our photo documentarian. She's not only a fantastic pillion, but a great back seat photographer. All the "road" shots are by her on the back. Just another of her amazing skills...
Greve was home to Giovanni da Verrazzano, who discovered the New York harbor, and now has the Verrazano bridge named after him.
Hmmm...I believe this statue is called "Envy."
Some vintage Alfas enjoying the sunshine
Lunch! Every meal in Italy was incredible. Small farms dot the landscape throughout this region and "farm to table" is an everyday reality. You taste it everywhere you go, and do not need to make any effort to find a good restaurant.
We HAVE to come back and do some wine tasting!
Next up, the towers of San Gimignano, the "Manhattan of the Middle Ages."
Following Ray, more about our fabulous guides later.
How the hell does this lock work? More on the Ducati luggage later too...
We end day 1 in Siena, with vine covered parking and some well earned libations at The Garden Hotel https://www.gardenhotel.it/en/
That's Hendricks, cucumber, Schweppes and pepper. We had to come to Italy to learn how to make the perfect G&T.
Day 2, a not really a rest day
This is an "option" day; explore Siena or go for a ride. Krisanne strolls into the city, I motor into the country.
The City Mouse
The Country Mouse
We'll be following Ursula to the Abbazia di San Galgano ruins today, while Ray puts his chef's hat on and prepares a picnic lunch for later.
An Abby in the Mist
Abandoned in the 15th century. It was the first Gothic church built in Tuscany; construction began in 1220 and was completed six decades later.
An Agriturismo is a working small farm that also rents rooms. The Italian government provides incentives for this in an effort to keep small farms viable. They are scattered throughout the hillsides and look like an interesting experience we'll have to try some day.
After winding our way back to the Garden Hotel in Siena, Krisanne and I meet back up for a picnic catered by some guy on a broomstick...
We were planning to walk back into Siena for dinner, but with a looming thunderstorm, decided that the patio looked far too inviting to leave.
Our favorite bartender was back on duty!
The boomer rolls thru while we hide under an umbrella and we're rewarded with this:
Day 3, Siena to Assisi
Filtering to the front. No issues, completely expected. Nirvana. In fact, all thru Italy cars would make room, but you have to "take your space." Hesitate and that space will be gone in an instant.
The woman in red...
Wheeeeee
No rain...yet...
Heading into Montalcino, known for it's Brunello wine. The town was a 14th century fortress for the Medici dukes. These folks knew how to live...can you imagine it?
You don't want a "thumbs down."
Bagno Vignoni is next, with 36 hot springs that bubble into a pool built by, guess who, the Medici. AND a PICNIC!
On to Assisi. There were a few "lost souls" along the way, and the route had a "heavenly" greeting for us.
The found waiting for the lost...
Back on track
Hey, baby, c'mon over here, let me buy you a house!
Looking pretty dark...you've got one guess.
Beer and indoor parking await at Hotel Giotto http://www.hotelgiottoassisi.i
Holy Mother of God Water. Rode right thru it...love our Aerostich!
Day 4...exploring Assisi
No riding for us today, instead we take off on foot to wander Assisi.
Better weather today for sure!
Best purse ev-ah! One of a kind, handmade locally. Heading to Basilica di San Francisco.
Assisi is a city of nooks and crannies, all made of stone. It has a wonderful relaxed feeling to it.
Look carefully
Old and new. Just looks "right."
The Temple of Minerva. Built by the Romans in 1 BC; the columns were carved directly out of the hillside. On either side of the altar are drains to catch the blood from the sacrificed. The adjacent church was built in 1539.
Outside the Basilica di Santa Chiara
Roman baths at the Ansiteatro Romano
Day 5, Assisi to the Republic of San Marino, the oldest republic in Europe
Arrivederci!
Trasimeno Lake
Cortona for a coffee
Lunch!
Twisties!
And our own band!
Urbino, "the town on two hills," the birth place of the painter Raphael and, later, much later, The Doctor, Valentino Rossi..cue the applause...
Heading to San Marino, today's destination. This is a "shining city on the hill" visible for miles as you approach. Unfortunately, it is tough to capture without sophisticated photography equipment, but here it is, right on the hilltop:
Break time
Climbing up to the top...
The Grand Hotel, our base for 2 nights. https://www.grandhotel.sm/it/
The reward:
From our balcony
Day 6...to the sea, a memorial, the ranch and the track
We're off!
A bit of traffic heading to the Adriatic, but taking a chapter from the Scooterati handbook, we filter and lane split to put it behind us. Easy, peasy.
Rimini, the home of whatever is left of Bimota
According to Ursula, every year German tourists come to and fill this Adriatic beach...to the same table, umbrella and location they have reserved. Same bat time, same bat channel, year in, year out. She kept referring to it as the "German BBQ" beach, perhaps not the best descriptor...
Enjoying her day at the beach
Off to the Marco Simoncelli memorial and museum. If you don't know "Sic" was an up and coming motogp racer until his untimely death at the 2011 Sepang race. He was a true talent and a real character. RIP Sic!
The exhaust pipe memorial...it shoots flames on schedule...only in Italy!
And a stop at the Misano race circuit, now named after Simoncelli
It is time to climb up, up, up for lunch over the Adriatic.
What a view! But I'm biased...
Somebody worked hard for their lunch...Ray...
Almost too idyllic to leave, but we want to have at least an overlook of Valentino Rossi's "Ranch," his personal, world class training facility that helps keep the now 39 year old motogp racer at the sharp end of the grid. A legend, and very likely the "GOAT"...Greatest Of All Time.
Nearby is The Doctor's official store and cafe. I have to get my 46 cappuccino. And as luck would have it, Rossi himself is live on TV qualifying for Aragon. Pretty cool!!
Heading back to San Marino
There she is
Around the final turn and down into the garage
Tonight, we're heading to Nido del Falco, the Falcon's Nest, a restaurant at the top of the hill with food to match the view
Day 7...back to Donnini and Villa Pitiana
We'll head back via Passo del Muraglione, a mountain road that divides Tuscany and Emilia Romagna. Years ago, the road was closed on Sundays...for racing. The locals have not forgotten!!
Ursula leads us up
There's a party at the top, true on almost every pass in Europe. Quite a contrast to the US, where all you get is a porta potty and a sign. Great to hang and watch the bikes come and go
Heading back down
A local winds his way thru the crowd. Awesome job by Krisanne catching him on the move.
And we're back at Villa Pitiana!
We're not in the Tower Room this time, but still...
A few words about Edelweiss and our Tour Guides
This is my second Edelweiss tour and they have both been wonderful experiences. They do a first rate job, very organized, great hotels, great restaurants, bikes in excellent condition. Our tour guides, Ursula and Ray, were exceptional. Both fantastic riders, fun people and extremely knowledgeable about the area, the history and the roads. They have a challenging job, a bit like herding cats, and they do it with grace.
And what about the Multistrada 1260S?
We were very much looking forward to this extended test ride and, for the most part, were very impressed with the bike. The new 1260 motor has eliminated the biggest problem with the 1200: the torque dip in the middle of the rev range. It now delivers power everywhere, and the DVT system does a good job making that power tractable all the way down to 2500 rpm. The Skyhook suspension is also very good, compliant and controlled. We smacked the center stand down only once...
My biggest complaint surrounds the luggage, which feels flimsy and does not allow you to leave the bags latched and unlocked. This seemingly small thing makes using them a PITA b/c you have to fish the key out every single time, for every single bag. And I do mean fish, because it has a keyless ride system (which BMW is also now using, and I simply do not understand the value), so the key fob is always buried in your pocket. Dumb. This bike had only 6k kilometers on it; the right heated grip did not work, and it would only randomly go into the different ride modes. A bit frustrating.
It is, however, a very exciting bike to ride. Instant launch you to the moon power, confidence inspiring handling and truly comfortable, for both rider and passenger. It is also nice to be flat footed, the Multi has a very narrow waist that helps, especially 2-up and stopping frequently. The other side of the exciting coin is that it is not a relaxed bike; she wants to go go go...now. The proverbial double edged sword.
Could I live with it? Sure. I just don't know that I'd buy one as my touring mount. Maybe if I could have only one bike.
What's Next?
This trip again confirmed for me that I want to spend more time in Europe, and more time riding in Europe. When we got home, I continued to research ways to keep a bike there so fly and ride vacations could be easier, less expensive than renting a bike, and longer. Also, as good as the Edelweiss tours are, I want to explore on my own...wander around a bit and get lost...see what happens. Meet more locals.
I discovered what amounts to a "motorcycle B&B" in Heidelberg, Germany. They will arrange shipment of your US plated bike from LA, store it in their heated warehouse, have an on-site workshop for minor maintenance, and adjacent rooms to rent for arrival and departure. All for less than you might expect, about $1400 to ship and $350/year to store. Plus, you can purchase "green card" insurance in 30 day increments to ride around the EU for about $300. You can ship your motorcycle gear with the bike and store it there as well, letting us travel light. Because AZ does not require motorcycle inspections, the bike never has to come back to keep it registered.
Time to take the plunge. We thought about shipping our current 2011 BMW 1200GS over, but decided that it is really bigger than we need for the little roads in Europe we want to explore. I wanted something lighter, that I could flat foot, but still would travel well. I found a very lightly used BMW F800GT in California, did a fly and ride to pick it up and rode it home. This is the bike we rented in Scotland and liked. It has "enough" of everything...enough power, handling, luggage...to make it a good choice for about 7-10 years of riding Europe.
Recharging in Yuma
We're riding it around a bit locally, and I'll fully service it before she heads back to the Fatherland in mid-February. Later in 2019, I'll fly into Frankfurt, pick up the bike and wander thru Germany, Switzerland, maybe Austria, finding my way to Varenna, Italy on Lake Como. Krisanne will fly into Milan and we'll meet up. Spend some time on the lake and riding the Italian Alps, she'll fly back, I'll ride back to Heidelberg, store the bike, then head home.
Press the "repeat" button every year, with a different target destination. Norway, Spain, Portugal, Scotland again. Wherever. We'll run out of time and money before we run out of good places to see.
That's the plan anyway! Wish us luck!
