The European Chronicles 2026.9

June 30, 2026

The European Chronicles 2026.9 - Valdobbiadene

Vibe = Tribe

Do you have places that "speak" to you? Where you feel instantly, and surprisingly, comfortable? At home? Relaxed? There are a few places like that for me...and they don't seem to have a lot in common, which makes understanding this phenomenon somewhat difficult. New York. Pitztal. Crested Butte. Collalbo. Tuscany. And Valdobbiadene.

Krisanne and I share some of these places; she loves NY, and loves Assisi, in particular, in Tuscany. But "the West Coast" also does it for her, and does not for me. Nothing "in the West" really does it for me, at least so far. We both agree that Tucson does not do it for either of us...despite having great friends and neighbors; the city itself, and its culture, is "meh" at best. Why is that? Even after 20 years.

It's a "vibe thing" and the vibe is your tribe. You feel it, I think; the place "resonates" with you. You're on the same frequency. It feels good. It is, without question, not logical in any way, shape or form. It's there, or it's not. A light switch, not a dimmer.

You can "logic it" all you want...and we do, every day we're in Tucson. You can get through the day without sex, but not without a good rationalization. 😂

So I roll out of Kaltern, which is a great place but doesn't resonate, and head to Valdobbiadene, the land of Prosecco.

Over several passes, the highest and busiest is Passo Rolle.

Relive 'To Valdobbiandene!'

There are actually two pass photographers on Passo Rolle.

And here I'm being chased by some gawd-awful bug-like thing.

They need to work on their backgrounds so they more reflect the dramatic landscape...they are not doing it justice. It is stunning.

Passo Brocon is not very high, not very well known, and let's keep it that way because it is beautiful, fun, and lightly traveled.

Best road of the day.

I roll into Valdobbiadene, and on to Roggia dei Cedri, my own little eco-pod.

Here's the vibe thing, at least one example...not far down the street from Roggia dei Cedri is an award-winning pastry shop, and the defacto place for breakfast and coffee. The cornetto is so light, I'm sure the creama is what keeps it from floating off the plate.

To my immediate left is a guy by himself, and a woman at a table to his left, reading a newspaper. An actual paper you can hold in your hand. To my immediate right are 2 women talking about family; I know this only because I've caught the words "figlia" and "bambino" but understand nothing else. To their right are three people, who obviously know the guy to my left. They proceed to have an "animated," prolonged, conversation over all of us...with joy, laughter and passion so evident that it transcends language...which I don't understand. Not a word. But I sit there trying to suppress a giggle, like a 12 year old girl. I'm not sure why, but this "resonates." It makes me smile, and it makes me glad I'm there.

The guy to my left gets up to leave, as does the woman to his immediate left. She leaves the paper she's been reading. Another woman sits down at the table, moves the coffee cup over to the table of the guy who just left so hers is clean, and offers me the newspaper, in an "of course" kind of gesture. I politely (or so I think) decline. I'd just be staring at the Italian, mesmerized but without comprehension.

This little scene seems so "human" to me. And yet so "every day" to the players. Perhaps that's why it resonates.

The piazza in the center of town:

On Monday, there's a market.

The winery owned by and directly behind Roggia dei Cedri, Ciodet.

Excellent.

But for the parking sensors and back up camera, I'm not sure the Alfa driver will even see the Fiat. 😂

This Thursday, Friday and Saturday will be a "Palio" in the town square. The surrounding towns get together to compete. Last year:

This should be interesting! 😎

They are getting ready:

A local winery is also home to the Axel Bassani World Superbike Fan Club.

You can't just pass this by, right? With Prosecco, there's DOC, DOCG and Cartizze, moving up the quality chain...and there's Dry to Extra Brut moving from more to less sugar. We get so, so, so little of "the good stuff" in the US, especially in Tucson. You can find DOCG Brut, but Cartizze...I've never seen it. The top of the pyramid.

I have to talk about this "leaf." It is made from parmesan cheese and laced with balsamic vinegar; it has the consistency of a potato chip. Incredible.