Unfinished Business
Unfinished Business
Sometimes, there are things you want to do, plan to do, intend to do. Sometimes, there are things you must do, have to do, are required to do. Sometimes, there are things you shouldn't do, mustn't do, are, to put it plainly, dumb to do.
And sometimes, you have to "re-Karma" what you do, so the new do is different from the old do.
I want new do. The hell with the old do. The old do sucked.
You see, the old do ended with 9 screws and a plate in my left ankle. X-rays. A cast. Physical therapy. A walking boot. Time off from work (ok, that wasn't bad). A knee scooter (that was bad). No riding for 8 weeks (that was worse). A fair amount of cursing.
So to hell with the old do.
But still. Utah + me = unfinished business.
Time to go back, but with New Karma. Leaving Thursday. New routes, new goals, new hotels, new people. A new experience.
Let's do the new do!
Trip Intent
Canyonlands and Arches National Parks are this trip's potential targets. I've ridden past in the past, but did not take the time to stop and smell the red rock. Island in the Sky and The Needles in Canyonlands; Devils Garden, Delicate Arch and The Windows in Arches. Touristy, yes, especially Arches, whose website warns about long entrance wait times. They even have a webcam streaming the line, just like your local DMV, yikes! We'll see; I'm thinking a dawn patrol run may solve the problem. Should be good photography as well. Put on the clear visor and turn the Gerbings up to "roast" while the normally cool desert morning transforms into a warm afternoon.
And, although I'm writing this before the trip but during the research, I'm willing to be wrong about all of it. If there's a path that's more Zen, where the Force beckons, or has little yellow bricks on it, well then, that will be the road...
In fact, further sleuthing has disclosed that the Halls Crossing Ferry is up and running after being down, again, for repairs this winter. That's also been a goal; it was broken last year too...and I'm a romantic sucker for ferries, especially when they carry your bike into an otherwise inaccessible perspective. The turntable ferry from Glenelg to the Isle of Skye in Scotland was a hoot. So was the Cape May to Lewis, Delaware trip, which always let me bypass a large swath of ugly when heading south out of New Jersey, and at the same time enjoy the dining excellence of a Ferry McMuffin. Floating across Lake Powell has an obvious appeal: red canyon walls, blue water, a unique experience. Up and running, yes, but also closed for a couple of days just last week because of high winds, so a pre-ride call seems in order; the road there is a literal dead end. The ferry leads me in a different direction than Arches and Canyonlands. But maybe she has little yellow bricks on her deck. You never know...and since I haven't ferried this way 'fore, still New Karma, with no crowds. Hmmmmm.
Then there's Moab, not for the legendary dirt, but rather for Route 128 along the Colorado River. And it's proximity to Canyonlands, so the two, theoretically, could be combined, along with Castle Valley and the La Sal Mountain loop. Maybe Dead Horse Point and Sego Canyon Rock Art thrown in for good measure on a big loop. More hmmmmm, and more new do, with less crowds. Even as I write this, the idea of sitting in line at Arches straddling an idling BMW and waving to the webcam makes me itch.
Staying in Mexican Hat, but this time at the Hat Rock Inn, home of the Swingin' Steak. No, you can't make it up. New Karma. Good Karma. Last year, when I crashed without falling off, the kind folks at the Hat Rock allowed me to leave the GS, aka The Hammer, on their property for about a week waiting for Haul Bikes (great, by the way) to pick it up, even though I didn't stay there. Could not have been more helpful and a big shout out to Jessica, who coordinated with the hauling service and also mailed the bike cover back to me. Figured I should vote with my wallet, plus they have a heated salt water pool! More expensive than the other choices, but quality New Karma ain't cheap.
This will be a solo trip, also part of the re-Karmatization. I need it all this time, no sharing.
The Route North
Relatively simple, as there are really only a few options north out of Tucson. Through the Salt River Canyon, the mining town of Globe, Show Low (named after a card game), the Petrified Forest, two Indian Reservations and Monument Valley.
The Hammer is packed, weather looks good, GPS is stocked with potential. I'm making an offering to Karma tonight. Dawn launch Thursday, 485 miles planned, gaining an hour with a time zone change. Photos, stories, results 4 days later...
Launch
It's easy to take the route out of Tucson for granted. After all, you have to fight what seems like endless non-synchronized traffic lights for about 25 miles before the road "opens up" and reveals some desert beauty along with riding fun. Leaving early helps; true of most places.
Departure about 6:30 am, with 485 miles planned.
Clear of the city, the climb begins. Sweepers, little traffic, as I head toward the Salt River Canyon. Cool but not cold, low 50s to start, Gerbings on "simmer," we burble along.
More sweepers, little traffic, the perfect start.
Things are going along swimmingly until...
Into every ride a little road construction must fall...this time, Apace Indian Reservation construction. Thankfully, these lovely ladies make waiting for the Pilot Car enjoyable...plus, I'm first in line...no need to eat dust...until late...cue the music...
Rolling into Show Low, it was time for some late breakfast/early lunch. Right on the Deuce of Clubs is Persnikkity's Cafe; a quick dive into the parking lot and I'm inside, just as the WIND is starting to pick up.
As I'm waiting, a couple of riders pull in, heading south to Tucson...and warning me of impending doom...locust, pestilence, plague...all manner of horrible things brought on by the "worst WIND I've ever ridden thru." I'm not worried, I've got New Karma...cue the music again...bum, bum...bum, bum.
Onward to Petrified Forest National Park. A surreal landscape and yes, the wind was picking up, but surprisingly was mostly at my back. Depending on the direction though, the side blast could be pretty fierce. Generally Good New Karma...so far...
At the northern end of the road thru the Petrified Forest is a Route 66 memorial; this is the only National Park that Route 66 intersects.
There's even a Caddy grille to mark the spot:
Next stop, the Hubbell Trading post, the oldest continuously operating trading post in the Southwest. John Hubbell purchased the post in 1878 and built a trading empire. Sold to the Park Service in 1967.
Apparitions in the Dust
The wind and dust really pick up in Chinle. Visibility drops, there is crap blowing all over, but progress is still possible. I press on to Monument Valley.
There's so much dust that "vortex circles" form on the back of The Hammer's windscreen:
Roll into Mexican Hat...still pretty windy, but it is calming down. Check into the Hat Rock, and here's the view from my room:
And, of course, the "gear explosion" in the room:
Time for a shower and a stroll to the Swingin' Steak for dinner!
A very satisfying end to a very satisfying first day...ahhhhhhhhh...
Day 2 The La Sal Mountain Loop
Let me cut to the chase: this is some of the best, most scenic riding I've ever experienced. Stunning views, open sweepers, tight technical areas, some graded gravel, just a fabulous loop. Around almost every turn is a "wow."
My initial plan was this:
And once I got to the intersection of Route 128, I'd decide whether to go east for more of 128 and maybe a loop to Sego Canyon Rock Art, or west toward Moab and maybe Arches or Canyonlands.
First, a ride past the Mexican Hat namesake heading toward Bluff.
After gassing up in Moab, I double back south to start the La Sal loop. The weather is mixed; bright and sunny, but cool, in some areas, cloudy with rain funnels in others. Temperatures never got over 60, most of the day was spent in the low 50s, upper 40s, with a low of 37. Was very glad for the electrics.
The La Sal Loop is, allegedly, all paved. And it is...kinda. The southern portion is paved, but there are many, many large potholes and broken pavement in the middle of most turns, so it is not a road to "attack." Which, frankly, is just as well because the scenery is spectacular. You climb into Castle Valley on a ridge line and it is breathtakingly beautiful. Here, slow is a good thing.
There are sections that have been newly paved, and a few sections that are about to be, but today, are graded gravel. Nothing extreme or difficult, but it is in a tight twisty steep section, so I just trundle along taking in the views.
This is the portion that's absolutely stunning:
The La Sal loop intersects with Route 128, which tracks the Colorado River. I head east toward Dewey. The road twists and turns with the river, rising up and down within the canyon walls. Fun. Beautiful. Definitely Good Karma.
I was originally going to take the frontage road west at the intersection with I-70 and head over to the Sego Canyon petroglyphs, but the frontage road was straight, boring and poorly paved. So, remembering that every great road should be done at least twice, and that they all feel different in the opposite direction, I doubled back and did 128 again. More smiles per mile.
Stopped for lunch at The Red Cliffs Lodge; the restaurant is right on the river, with an all you can eat grille buffet for 11 bucks. Perfect.
The restaurant view:
After lunch, headed west into Moab, and was thinking I might ride into Canyonlands on the way to Mexican Hat. See the dark cloud in the above picture? As I'm riding south through Moab (a zoo of Jeeps and side x sides) it intermittently spits and rains, sometimes heavy and mixed with sleet and snow. Temp reads about 44...hmmmm...
I stop in Montecello for gas, and by that time it is snowing pretty heavily, and the temperature has dropped to 41. I've had a great day...time for happy hour. Canyonlands will have to wait.
As I ride back to Mexican Hat, the sun breaks out, reaffirming the choice.
Happy Hour next to the San Juan River:
As the sun sets...
Ferry Day!
Today would be Hall Crossing Ferry Day...the 10 am ferry the target but I slept in and got a later than hoped for start. Oh, well, there's another at noon. The route starts over the Moki Dugway:
Notice the GPS says I'll get to Hall's Crossing at 10:23, so I'm thinking the noon ferry is it. Especially because the words "fast" and "dirt" have never been used in the same sentence with my name. I cruise over the Dugway, enjoying the view.
Much to my surprise, on the other side of the Dugway, Betty tells me I'd miss the 10 am ferry by only 16 minutes. Hmmmm...the rest is pavement...hmmmm..."Warp 9, Mr. Sulu."
The road to the ferry is relatively straight and open. Looking in the rearview, though, reveals a swirling contrail of red dust. A reminder to drop out of Warp for any turns.
And here she is:
When did I get there?
Thankfully, they were running a little behind...
Just north of the Bullfrog Marina lies the Burr Trail, and the first 20 miles or so heading west is paved. Makes a great 40 mile detour.
We have cow...
The end of the line for this pavement jockey.
More stunning views on the way back, with Lake Powell in the distance.
Well, that was worth doing! North to Hanksville for some lunch at Duke's Slickrock Cafe. Good food, friendly waitstaff, and a sense of humor. Reading material on the table:
All fueled up, time to un-screen and ride south toward Hite.
Crossing back over the Colorado River and the Moki Dugway from the North.
The Hammer at rest after another fantastic day. Tomorrow, the ride home.
Dawn Patrol...Monument Valley at sunrise:
445 miles to home
I went to the 1964-65 World's Fair in Flushing, NY and one of my memories is the Sinclair exhibit where they made these plastic Dinos right in front of you. Came out warm from the oven...I was 10.
Now they just randomly roam the occasional Sinclair station.
A fantastic 4 day trip, all the demons banished and my Karma Train has arrived!
Sometimes, there are things you want to do, plan to do, intend to do. Sometimes, there are things you must do, have to do, are required to do. Sometimes, there are things you shouldn't do, mustn't do, are, to put it plainly, dumb to do.
And sometimes, you have to "re-Karma" what you do, so the new do is different from the old do.
I want new do. The hell with the old do. The old do sucked.
You see, the old do ended with 9 screws and a plate in my left ankle. X-rays. A cast. Physical therapy. A walking boot. Time off from work (ok, that wasn't bad). A knee scooter (that was bad). No riding for 8 weeks (that was worse). A fair amount of cursing.
So to hell with the old do.
But still. Utah + me = unfinished business.
Time to go back, but with New Karma. Leaving Thursday. New routes, new goals, new hotels, new people. A new experience.
Let's do the new do!
Trip Intent
Canyonlands and Arches National Parks are this trip's potential targets. I've ridden past in the past, but did not take the time to stop and smell the red rock. Island in the Sky and The Needles in Canyonlands; Devils Garden, Delicate Arch and The Windows in Arches. Touristy, yes, especially Arches, whose website warns about long entrance wait times. They even have a webcam streaming the line, just like your local DMV, yikes! We'll see; I'm thinking a dawn patrol run may solve the problem. Should be good photography as well. Put on the clear visor and turn the Gerbings up to "roast" while the normally cool desert morning transforms into a warm afternoon.
And, although I'm writing this before the trip but during the research, I'm willing to be wrong about all of it. If there's a path that's more Zen, where the Force beckons, or has little yellow bricks on it, well then, that will be the road...
In fact, further sleuthing has disclosed that the Halls Crossing Ferry is up and running after being down, again, for repairs this winter. That's also been a goal; it was broken last year too...and I'm a romantic sucker for ferries, especially when they carry your bike into an otherwise inaccessible perspective. The turntable ferry from Glenelg to the Isle of Skye in Scotland was a hoot. So was the Cape May to Lewis, Delaware trip, which always let me bypass a large swath of ugly when heading south out of New Jersey, and at the same time enjoy the dining excellence of a Ferry McMuffin. Floating across Lake Powell has an obvious appeal: red canyon walls, blue water, a unique experience. Up and running, yes, but also closed for a couple of days just last week because of high winds, so a pre-ride call seems in order; the road there is a literal dead end. The ferry leads me in a different direction than Arches and Canyonlands. But maybe she has little yellow bricks on her deck. You never know...and since I haven't ferried this way 'fore, still New Karma, with no crowds. Hmmmmm.
Then there's Moab, not for the legendary dirt, but rather for Route 128 along the Colorado River. And it's proximity to Canyonlands, so the two, theoretically, could be combined, along with Castle Valley and the La Sal Mountain loop. Maybe Dead Horse Point and Sego Canyon Rock Art thrown in for good measure on a big loop. More hmmmmm, and more new do, with less crowds. Even as I write this, the idea of sitting in line at Arches straddling an idling BMW and waving to the webcam makes me itch.
Staying in Mexican Hat, but this time at the Hat Rock Inn, home of the Swingin' Steak. No, you can't make it up. New Karma. Good Karma. Last year, when I crashed without falling off, the kind folks at the Hat Rock allowed me to leave the GS, aka The Hammer, on their property for about a week waiting for Haul Bikes (great, by the way) to pick it up, even though I didn't stay there. Could not have been more helpful and a big shout out to Jessica, who coordinated with the hauling service and also mailed the bike cover back to me. Figured I should vote with my wallet, plus they have a heated salt water pool! More expensive than the other choices, but quality New Karma ain't cheap.
This will be a solo trip, also part of the re-Karmatization. I need it all this time, no sharing.
The Route North
Relatively simple, as there are really only a few options north out of Tucson. Through the Salt River Canyon, the mining town of Globe, Show Low (named after a card game), the Petrified Forest, two Indian Reservations and Monument Valley.
The Hammer is packed, weather looks good, GPS is stocked with potential. I'm making an offering to Karma tonight. Dawn launch Thursday, 485 miles planned, gaining an hour with a time zone change. Photos, stories, results 4 days later...
Launch
It's easy to take the route out of Tucson for granted. After all, you have to fight what seems like endless non-synchronized traffic lights for about 25 miles before the road "opens up" and reveals some desert beauty along with riding fun. Leaving early helps; true of most places.
Departure about 6:30 am, with 485 miles planned.
Clear of the city, the climb begins. Sweepers, little traffic, as I head toward the Salt River Canyon. Cool but not cold, low 50s to start, Gerbings on "simmer," we burble along.
More sweepers, little traffic, the perfect start.
Things are going along swimmingly until...
Into every ride a little road construction must fall...this time, Apace Indian Reservation construction. Thankfully, these lovely ladies make waiting for the Pilot Car enjoyable...plus, I'm first in line...no need to eat dust...until late...cue the music...
Rolling into Show Low, it was time for some late breakfast/early lunch. Right on the Deuce of Clubs is Persnikkity's Cafe; a quick dive into the parking lot and I'm inside, just as the WIND is starting to pick up.
As I'm waiting, a couple of riders pull in, heading south to Tucson...and warning me of impending doom...locust, pestilence, plague...all manner of horrible things brought on by the "worst WIND I've ever ridden thru." I'm not worried, I've got New Karma...cue the music again...bum, bum...bum, bum.
Onward to Petrified Forest National Park. A surreal landscape and yes, the wind was picking up, but surprisingly was mostly at my back. Depending on the direction though, the side blast could be pretty fierce. Generally Good New Karma...so far...
At the northern end of the road thru the Petrified Forest is a Route 66 memorial; this is the only National Park that Route 66 intersects.
There's even a Caddy grille to mark the spot:
Next stop, the Hubbell Trading post, the oldest continuously operating trading post in the Southwest. John Hubbell purchased the post in 1878 and built a trading empire. Sold to the Park Service in 1967.
Apparitions in the Dust
The wind and dust really pick up in Chinle. Visibility drops, there is crap blowing all over, but progress is still possible. I press on to Monument Valley.
There's so much dust that "vortex circles" form on the back of The Hammer's windscreen:
Roll into Mexican Hat...still pretty windy, but it is calming down. Check into the Hat Rock, and here's the view from my room:
And, of course, the "gear explosion" in the room:
Time for a shower and a stroll to the Swingin' Steak for dinner!
A very satisfying end to a very satisfying first day...ahhhhhhhhh...
Day 2 The La Sal Mountain Loop
Let me cut to the chase: this is some of the best, most scenic riding I've ever experienced. Stunning views, open sweepers, tight technical areas, some graded gravel, just a fabulous loop. Around almost every turn is a "wow."
My initial plan was this:
And once I got to the intersection of Route 128, I'd decide whether to go east for more of 128 and maybe a loop to Sego Canyon Rock Art, or west toward Moab and maybe Arches or Canyonlands.
First, a ride past the Mexican Hat namesake heading toward Bluff.
After gassing up in Moab, I double back south to start the La Sal loop. The weather is mixed; bright and sunny, but cool, in some areas, cloudy with rain funnels in others. Temperatures never got over 60, most of the day was spent in the low 50s, upper 40s, with a low of 37. Was very glad for the electrics.
The La Sal Loop is, allegedly, all paved. And it is...kinda. The southern portion is paved, but there are many, many large potholes and broken pavement in the middle of most turns, so it is not a road to "attack." Which, frankly, is just as well because the scenery is spectacular. You climb into Castle Valley on a ridge line and it is breathtakingly beautiful. Here, slow is a good thing.
There are sections that have been newly paved, and a few sections that are about to be, but today, are graded gravel. Nothing extreme or difficult, but it is in a tight twisty steep section, so I just trundle along taking in the views.
This is the portion that's absolutely stunning:
The La Sal loop intersects with Route 128, which tracks the Colorado River. I head east toward Dewey. The road twists and turns with the river, rising up and down within the canyon walls. Fun. Beautiful. Definitely Good Karma.
I was originally going to take the frontage road west at the intersection with I-70 and head over to the Sego Canyon petroglyphs, but the frontage road was straight, boring and poorly paved. So, remembering that every great road should be done at least twice, and that they all feel different in the opposite direction, I doubled back and did 128 again. More smiles per mile.
Stopped for lunch at The Red Cliffs Lodge; the restaurant is right on the river, with an all you can eat grille buffet for 11 bucks. Perfect.
The restaurant view:
After lunch, headed west into Moab, and was thinking I might ride into Canyonlands on the way to Mexican Hat. See the dark cloud in the above picture? As I'm riding south through Moab (a zoo of Jeeps and side x sides) it intermittently spits and rains, sometimes heavy and mixed with sleet and snow. Temp reads about 44...hmmmm...
I stop in Montecello for gas, and by that time it is snowing pretty heavily, and the temperature has dropped to 41. I've had a great day...time for happy hour. Canyonlands will have to wait.
As I ride back to Mexican Hat, the sun breaks out, reaffirming the choice.
Happy Hour next to the San Juan River:
As the sun sets...
Ferry Day!
Today would be Hall Crossing Ferry Day...the 10 am ferry the target but I slept in and got a later than hoped for start. Oh, well, there's another at noon. The route starts over the Moki Dugway:
Notice the GPS says I'll get to Hall's Crossing at 10:23, so I'm thinking the noon ferry is it. Especially because the words "fast" and "dirt" have never been used in the same sentence with my name. I cruise over the Dugway, enjoying the view.
Much to my surprise, on the other side of the Dugway, Betty tells me I'd miss the 10 am ferry by only 16 minutes. Hmmmm...the rest is pavement...hmmmm..."Warp 9, Mr. Sulu."
The road to the ferry is relatively straight and open. Looking in the rearview, though, reveals a swirling contrail of red dust. A reminder to drop out of Warp for any turns.
And here she is:
When did I get there?
Thankfully, they were running a little behind...
Just north of the Bullfrog Marina lies the Burr Trail, and the first 20 miles or so heading west is paved. Makes a great 40 mile detour.
We have cow...
The end of the line for this pavement jockey.
More stunning views on the way back, with Lake Powell in the distance.
Well, that was worth doing! North to Hanksville for some lunch at Duke's Slickrock Cafe. Good food, friendly waitstaff, and a sense of humor. Reading material on the table:
All fueled up, time to un-screen and ride south toward Hite.
Crossing back over the Colorado River and the Moki Dugway from the North.
The Hammer at rest after another fantastic day. Tomorrow, the ride home.
Dawn Patrol...Monument Valley at sunrise:
445 miles to home
I went to the 1964-65 World's Fair in Flushing, NY and one of my memories is the Sinclair exhibit where they made these plastic Dinos right in front of you. Came out warm from the oven...I was 10.
Now they just randomly roam the occasional Sinclair station.
A fantastic 4 day trip, all the demons banished and my Karma Train has arrived!
